3 Days free in the calendar. The most magic weather window one would have thought possible and the opportunity for chasing some epic country - sign me up.

Back in May, a little dream came true. As a lover of the outdoors and someone who loves to photograph and seek out our beautiful, wild landscapes, I’m sure I’m not the only one that has dreamt of visiting the one and only Blue Lake in Nelson Lakes National Park or as some know it as, the clearest water in the world.

This trip has always felt like a mission to execute. It requires at least 3 days to do without rushing - although there are multiple ways to do it - a decent weather window (because no one wants to see the clearest water in the world on a gloomy day) and as above, a long weekend if you live nearby, longer if you are further from Nelson Lakes National Park.

So, one sunny weekend in May, a long weekend coming in hot and quite potentially the best weather Nelson Lakes had seen in autumn, you best bet I was packing my bags for a solo hike to reach Blue Lake.

DAY ONE

Home - Lake Rotoroa - West Sabine Hut

14 km
5 Hours Estimated Walking Time
West Sabine Hut Details

An early start was in order to drive the 1.5hours to Lake Rotoroa where I was scheduled to take the water taxi to Sabine Hut at the head of the lake at 9 am.

On arrival, it was foggy and crisp, but as soon as my bags were loaded on the boat and the motor was running with it’s wake breaking the lake’s clean slate, the clouds started to part with clear skies ahead.

Half an hour later, we arrived at Sabine Hut and I was left to reshuffle my excess layers and send off a satellite text to home that the hike had begun. 9.45 am I was on the trail and wandering over the first chasm, flowing with truly what was some of the clearest water I’d ever seen - this was a good decision.

Today my goal was to get to West Sabine Hut which would act as my ‘Blue Lake Base Camp’ for the next two nights. A place to stash my excess gear and get a good rest before the hike out on Sunday and enjoy the lake in good time and in the sunshine.

The hike to West Sabine Hut is estimated at 5 hours following the Sabine River. It wasn’t technical and for someone that doesn’t love being in the bush for long, I was pleasantly surprised and in awe of this walk.

Topo Maps was following my location and after two hours I was being watched by Mount Franklin in the distance which sat above my destination for the evening. Along the trail I was sharing smiles and trail chat with new faces smiling past from an adventure of their own where they exclaimed, “The lake is stunning, you will not be disappointed”.

I reached West Sabine Hut after darting in and out of the native forest, and under towering mountains at around 2 pm, making my total hiking time just over 4 hours. I arrived to the quaint 30 -bunk hut with heat in the fire and the last lick of sunlight as it began to dip behind the mountain ranges looking down on the hut.

I soaked up the last of the sun on it’s porch with a cup of coffee and a late lunch before being accompanied by a few dads and their sons on a very wholesome lads trip as well as a few couples all on their own trips.

Fast enough night came rolling in and dinner was served - a little chicken curry followed by half a block of choc and a cuppa cosied up in my sleeping bag with a hefty book (that seemed like a good idea to carry) before some stargazing and lights out.

Day Two

West Sabine Hut - Blue Lake and Lake Constance - West Sabine Hut

24 km
7 Hours Estimated Walking Time
Blue Lake Hut Details

Today was the day…

I awoke to the rustling of sleeping bags and headtorches bobbing about the hut before doing the same to prep an early breakfast of oats and Epic Coffee. Essential for the day ahead as well as a quick reshuffle of bags before heading out the door.

At 7.30 am I was wandering over the swing bridge over the Sabine River. As I wandered into the native forest again, surrounded in tall trees, there was a dampness in the air with that verdant earthy smell you can’t mistake for Aotearoa, New Zealand.

As I wandered, the bush became thinner as I gained elevation and after an hour the trail opened up into a clearing, revealing a large slip that cascaded into the river. To the right, waterfalls were in full force and rushing into the valley, and Mount Franklin, now to my left, standing tall amongst it’s other mountain ranges. I took a break here to pause as the sun began to quietly creep into the valley and take it all in.

The trail ahead looked like it was creeping up in altitude and what looked like Moss Pass, framed the valley. Gosh - I was fizzing and quietly grinning to myself at this little (but big) spot in the mountains. This part of the hike was breathtaking and truly felt like something out of Jurassic Park.

After taking it in, I carried on to the slightly harder section of the hike. The scree quietly turned into rocky outcrops and eventually a muddier trail under goblin forest with a moss-lined riverbed before moulding into rocky outcrops and boulders that led the way for the Sabine River to rush down to meet Lake Rotoroa. I was soon enough hopping over the riverbed rocks with one final push ahead to the sharp and steep finish into Blue Lake.

The sun was now flooding the valley, and as I wandered out of the trees, Blue Lake Hut was greeting me, nestled in a small clearing and leading the way to the one and only Blue Lake - I’d finally made it.

I wandered the short trail from the hut and out of the bush to the highly anticipated Blue Lake, with Mount Franklin holding a close gaze over the still blue water.

Blue Lake: Rotomairewhenua and Lake Constance: Rotopōhueroa

Blue Lake is a small lake located in the depths of Nelson Lakes National Park which was deemed the clearest water in the world by National Institute of Water and Atmosphere scientists back in 2010 with visibility of up to 80 meters.

The lakes water is considered Taonga (treasure in Maōri) for it's purity which helps link the past present and future generations of the Ngāti Apa people whom have an important relationship between the whenua (land) and wai (water) in this region. It's also very Tapū (sacred in Maōri). The area is well protected by those that visit it, care for it and monitor it. The lake and Lake Constance above it are forbidden swimming spots for this reason as any bacteria could threaten to infect this perfect water.

After finally getting here I can understand why this place is so well protected. This place left me speechless and has a way about it like no other place I've ever visited.

Blue Lake was partially formed by the Rhine Glacier back in the 1200s. Lake Constance, the large lake above it, likely feeds the lake which damed up in a landslide from Mount Franklin to the East and a landslide off to the West keeps Blue Lake perfectly encapsulated in its place and nurturing it's striking glacial blue water.

After admiring the lake and soaking in the views of the electric blue water, gleaming like a jewel, I still had time to hike up the hill to Lake Constance and gain a different vantage point.

A short climb up the moraine face, once created by an ancient glacier, and Blue Lake was glimmering at me from above, lit up by blue skies. Even from up here, you could see the bottom of the 80 metre deep lake, truly mind-blowing.

More layers of clothing shed, and I was in a t-shirt and shorts with Lake Constance revealing itself. I found a spot on the rocks to park up and sat once again in awe at this huge lake stretching over 2 kms that leads the way to Waiau Pass in the distance.

*Overlooking Lake Constance,* Rotopōhueroa

This truly could be one of the most scenic spots to eat a banana and sunbathe for a while and one spot I’ll remember forever.

After admiring the views, I reluctantly packed up after realising, to my dismay, I had left my flask behind for afternoon coffee and plodded back to the hut, saying goodbye to Lake Constance, Blue Lake and the surrounding mountains.

The sun teetering on the edge of the West-facing mountains before dipping entirely as I made my way into the tree line and back to the hut to river-chilled beers that I strategically placed before heading away in the early hours of the morning.

My legs, tired, but the happiest they had been in a while after visiting such a sacred place on Earth. I settled into my book for a while and shared stories with fellow hut stayers over more hot tea and dehydrated meals.

Day Three

West Sabine Hut - Sabine Hut - Home

14 km

5 Hours Estimated Walking Time

Home time was inbound and a longer sleep-in was earned after the day before.

In no rush, apart from making it to the water taxi at Sabine Hut at 2.30 pm, I crawled out of my sleeping bag to cook up some brekkie and a hot cup of coffee. To my pure disappointment, the ‘brekkie’ in question quickly became the runniest bowl of oats one could ever have made, which I quietly discarded for some bliss balls instead to pair with my coffee.

The hike out was just as pleasant as the one in. This time my legs with a slight ache, reminding me of the day before and the stunning scenery I had just seen, or, perhaps a quiet but wholesome nudge that I need to do this more often.

The air warmed the longer I walked, and the scenery from ducking in and out of the bushline alongside the Sabine River was just as good as the way in. After a couple of hours, I took a peek at Topo Maps which showed me I should look back and admire Mount Franklin one last time before the trail rounds and it disappears until the next time I return to the valley.

In good time, I was wandering over the chasm that gave me my first look at the crystal clear waters I saw the day before that led the way back to Sabine Hut.

With an hour to spare and enough instant coffee, I dropped my bags at the sunbathed hut that overlooked Lake Rotoroa and quiet happily parked up with my hardcover book for a hot drink and moment to finally rest the legs - and yes, I’m still questioning myself about the hardcover book.

2.30 pm rolled around and myself and three others were scooped up from different spots on the lake and taken back to the beginning. The park, still draped in sunlight but all of us with our own memory logs of great trips had.

This was my first multi-night hiking trip I did on my own, and one I would do again in a heartbeat.

Always remember to prepare for ever-changing weather conditions of the backcountry, check avalanche forecasts if you are venturing in alpine terrain and evaluate your level of experience, and always let someone know of your plans. The backcountry is magical, but is to be respected. Tred lightly, and carry out what you take in.

Our home, Mother Earth, and these places we like to explore need nurturing, and it’s our job as adventure lovers to admire and care for her along the way.

Mel x

Blue Lake: Unpacked